AIRPORT
Taipei doesn’t set out to impress.
Compared to the futuristic airports of Hong Kong or Seoul, Taipei’s seems almost modest. Small, functional, and unpretentious. The materials are simple, the architecture understated. Nothing here seems designed to dazzle the traveler.
And yet, it takes only a few minutes to realize that luxury lies elsewhere.
An employee spontaneously comes over to help us fill out the entry forms on his phone, with disarming patience and kindness. Our first encounter with Taiwan. Our first smile.
The contrast is amusing when we then discover the Cathay Pacific lounge: spacious, elegant, perfectly serene. The service is impeccable. The Dry Martini, prepared right before our eyes by a passionate bartender, is probably one of the best I’ve ever tasted while traveling.
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TRANSFERT
We’d barely stepped out of the terminal when a taxi was already waiting for us. An employee carefully checked our hotel address before giving it to the driver. Everything seemed simple. Natural.
Yet we had booked a private transfer. I had completely forgotten about it in the whirlwind of flights and connections.
The ride to the city center takes nearly an hour. Strangely, there’s no traffic. I’ll hardly ever see any during my entire stay.
The road winds through spectacular vegetation. A dense, humid, almost untamed tropical landscape. The trees are hidden beneath moss, and the hills seem to breathe in the rain. Here, humidity is part of the landscape.
IMPRESSIONS
Then Taipei comes into view.
The city doesn’t reveal itself. It leaves itself to the imagination.
At first glance, it’s impossible to understand it. Is it wealthy? Working-class? Modern? Old? Everything seems to blend together. Aging buildings stand side by side with glass skyscrapers. Nothing is ostentatious.
Taipei certainly never tries to charm at first glance.
NEIGHBORHOODS
Little by little, the neighborhoods change.
The avenues widen, the buildings become more elegant, the shops more refined. You then realize that Taiwan is a prosperous country. A discreet, almost silent prosperity.
I’m told that here, when shopping at Hermès or another major luxury brand, many customers ask for a plain bag to carry their purchase out of the store.
As if true elegance consisted precisely in not flaunting it.
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BIPOLAR
Taiwan seems to exist between two worlds.
History has left its mark here. Chinese influence is everywhere: in the energy, in the intensity of the city, in that sense of constant movement.
But Japan (the former colonial power) is never far away. Its influence remains in the politeness, the sense of order, the restraint, and the delicacy of gestures.
This dual identity gives Taiwan a unique personality. It’s impossible to compare it to any other country in Asia.
TROPICAL
The sky calls the shots.
A torrential downpour hits without warning. Ten minutes later, the sun comes out as if nothing had happened. Then the downpour starts again.
You quickly understand why every hotel provides umbrellas for its guests.
In Taipei, you don’t check the weather forecast. You experience it.
POLITENESS
Taiwanese people possess a kind of kindness that never seems forced.
In a small shop, I take an interest in an electric fragrance diffuser. The saleswoman explains that it’s the display model and immediately offers to give it to me.
I refuse, of course, and insist on paying for it.
She smiles.
This simple exchange ultimately sums up much of what I’ll remember about Taiwan.
TEMPLES
In Taipei, temples appear around a street corner, between two buildings, sometimes amid the noise of traffic.
You step inside almost instinctively.
Inside, time slows down.
Incense wafts through the air, lanterns cast a warm glow, and worshippers pray in a surprising silence despite the city continuing to bustle just a few meters away.
You emerge feeling at peace.
It’s as if, here, spirituality were simply part of everyday life.
WHAT TO DO
HOTEL
I stayed at the magnificent Mandarin Oriental Palace in the ’90s (I think) and booked a large suite on the top floor (the room I’d originally reserved was actually a small suite, but it didn’t have a nice view and the ceilings were quite low. Since I was there for a week, I wanted as much comfort as possible). It was truly like an apartment: a large entryway, a guest restroom, a living room, an office, a walk-in closet, and, of course, a very beautiful bedroom and bathroom. The entire space was very luxurious and very well appointed. The suite allowed us to have breakfast in a quieter lounge where we were served at the table instead of the traditional buffets. It was very nice.
EATING
I found some good Chinese and Japanese restaurants, but I wouldn’t recommend trying an Italian one unless it’s been highly recommended. The hotel sent us to a nearby Italian restaurant, but it was really terrible. The hotel told us their guests had liked it—but which guests?
SHOPPING
You’ll head to the big malls, where you’re sure to find stores for ALL the major luxury brands, complete with every piece from their collections. At Dior, I saw the famous shorts released for this summer season, but since they weigh 8 kilos (yes), I didn’t even try them on, let alone buy them.
I shopped at Thom Browne New York, which has relatively few stores in Europe. Otherwise, there are—in a completely different vein—plenty of neighborhoods with markets and small boutiques where you can find anything you want: cute T-shirts or gorgeous Bermuda shorts, among other things.
101
You’ll definitely want to visit Tower 101, which is shaped like a bamboo stalk and was, for a time, the tallest building in the world. It’s easy to get to, and the top floor is a fun mix of kitsch and entertainment. The whole experience is very enjoyable, and you’ll take some great photos. You can see the entire city and the surrounding mountains.
QUARTIERS
XIMENDING is the vibrant heart of youth culture, fashion, and street art. It’s known as Taipei’s Harajuku: pop culture, tattoo parlors, and street art. It’s very lively on weekends.
ZHONGSHAN and SONSHAN (centrally located) draw visitors mainly for their hipster vibe—cafés and galleries, as well as thrift stores. The latter is located in former factories that have been repurposed as cultural spaces blending history with modern creativity.
XINYI remains the hub of luxury (malls) and modern nightlife, as well as rooftop bars.
YONGKANG Street is famous for its many restaurants, including the renowned Din Tai Fung (there are branches all over the world, but none in Brussels!), as well as its tea houses and artisanal shops.
The whole area is very clean and green, blending tradition, modernity, youth, and older residents.
SPA
Huang Chi Spa. A spa reserved for men. A nudist atmosphere in a Japanese-style setting. Busy on weekends and after dark.
Reputed to be popular with muscular men and bears.
GAY
Taiwan is very gay-friendly and is the first country in Asia to have recognized marriage equality.
Places change quickly, but Red Square is the place to go anyway.
