Bangkok
Bangkok by Didier Brouwers, Gallery Owner - Art22 Gallery, Brussels.
www.art22.gallery
My second home:
I feel so connected to this city that when I go back, I say to my friends, "I'm going home." Bangkok has, beyond the postcard or ‘sulphurous’ image that it is usually given, an exceptional soul. It is first of all a city of contrast, in constant change and forever on the alert. This city harmoniously coexists, given its crossroads situation, preserving authentic traditions with high tech and staying hyper trendy.
Aromas and perfumes:
There, the perfumes characteristic of Asia follow you around in all your travels. Gastronomy, traditional and modest or creative and luxurious, remains the spearhead of this megacity. Beyond taste, smell remains one of the 5 most important senses. The kitchens are often open and their aromas mingle with that of various types of incense that spread throughout the streets of the city.
Effervescence:
The city is teeming... everywhere, anytime. Tuk-tuks, yellow or pink taxis, buses, aerial subways (because Bangkok is on the water), pedestrians, speed boats or modest fishing boats offer the eyes of the spectator - who takes the time to stop (sometimes at his peril) - a tireless ballet and unending day and night.
Spirituality:
As soon as the sun rises, the monks walk barefoot through the alleys and arteries of the Thai capital, in search of the daily offering. While the old town is home to the most important temples, true places of pilgrimage, the contemporary Siam district also retains fierce enclaves dedicated to reflection and prayer.
Unbridled Creativity:
Bangkok fascinates me by the artistic power found in a number of different sectors. Expressiveness is above all respected and encouraged whether in fine arts, decorative arts, fashion, decoration, entertainment and even the way of being. So on the skywalks, you can meet men in three-piece suits, wearing high heels without offending the crowds. Having a family member participating in the international beauty pageant Miss Tiffany's Universe, created in Thailand and reserved for transgender people, is first and foremost a pride. Transvestite and transformist drag artists are just that - real artists; stars in the city as well as on the social media scene, hyper-influential personalities like the famous Bandit (@bandilicious) and his Facebook page /toeytonight.
WHERE TO GO
I'm not going to mention the must-sees - Wat Arun, Wat Pho, the Royal Palace : you'll find all the necessary information in the t brochures!
Below, however, I give a few addresses that make me want to never return to Belgium:
The Erawan Shrine.
Fans of authenticity and spirituality will not want to miss a visit to this small open-air temple dedicated to a deity invoked to fulfill your wishes of love and fortune. The place is interesting because it is nestled in the Siam district between the skywalks, the subway's aerial trains, the arteries and the shopping centers. A lot of fervour reigns there through offerings made by the faithful from all walks of life. Don't hesitate to get involved! From 20 baht (0.55 euros) for a garland of flowers or a small wooden elephant to lay in front of the altar, up to 800 baht to have the privilege of kneeling and praying in front of 8 dancers who will accompany your most fervent wishes with their songs and dances. It's beautiful and addictive, whether participating or just watching!
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Wat Saket:
The Golden Mountain is very interesting to visit in more ways than one: you will observe several types of prayers and devotions, typical of Buddhist places of worship, and can contemplate a superb 360 degree panorama of Old Bangkok. After paying a small entrance fee, you make the ascent by an endless staircase lined with kitsch decorations of animals, waterfalls, landings where you may, at leisure, ring many bells and gongs by formulating your wishes! Beneath the oak dome is a multitude of places of offerings and Buddhas where monks will help you prepare these. Another staircase and you can turn around the chédid, which holds relics of, typically Bhuddist nuns and monks, and is used as a place of meditation. Don't miss the cardboard paste diorama commemorating the malaria epidemic in Thailand. Near the access staircase, there is also a “tree of greetings and prayers” to which you can sign and hang a golden sheet of hammered brass.
Chao Phraya Express Boat : not to be missed!
For a few baht to give to the pointer as soon as you get on the boat, we discover all the hectic life of Bangkok via the chao Phraya River. Monks, businessmen, children, market gardeners, all this world is rushing into the boat that sails in a zig zag from pier in pier! It's simple and authentic! If you prefer to experience the tranquillity of the famous klongs, the typical and popular little canals, you will have no choice but the noisy speed boats that tourists await in an unruly queue along the quays. But write me and I'll give you Mister Dang's cell phone number - he runs a transport service that will allow you to visit the klongs in a small, rustic and typical boat that you can even fly under the captain's anxious eye.
Chinatown:
A beautiful Chinatown in the heart of Bangkok. Avoid the main thoroughfare and get lost in the very small streets. You will discover shops that beg to be photographed! Pedestrians wander through streets dotted with food stalls over hundreds of meters; dealers and antique dealers as in adventure films, hidden temples. In short, it's good to get lost in Chinatown! Don't miss the shops selling offerings to be burned – a whole array of riches, artifacts, designer clothes and gold bars – in cardboard boxes!
Jim Thompson House:
A visit to Jim Thompson's house is a must and even though it's hyper-touristy, I love going there. Built to a high standard to reflect the local architecture and tradition of Thai craftsmen builders, the house consists of several dwellings. The entrance fee is affordable and you can enjoy the guided tour in small language groups which includes an obligatory visit of the interior. Even if it is crowded, the various groups are well managed. A beautiful house, as if the master of the place had just left the day before.
The Amulets Market:
Thais are religious, superstitious and, above all, collectors of amulets that they wear- sometimes more than one - around their necks! Head to this ‘amulets market”, a little hidden in old Bangkok, to find this rare gem. The monks also shop here making a colourful addition to the scene. However, if it rains, the small narrow alleys turn into torrents and the rains pour down on your head.
The temple of street art:
This square, surrounded by foundations of dilapidated and disused buildings, can be found between some modest houses and the skyscrapers of Central World. It has no real address. But worth discovering - where all street artists assemble.
TO DO
WHERE TO RELAX ?
Wat Pho Massage School
Wat Pho Massage School. Here's a little tip: Wat Pho (the famous temple with the reclining golden Buddha) normally accepts visitors until 3:30/4:00 p.m. So go there around 3:00/3:30 p.m. and head straight to the back of the site for a massage. The school is easy to find. You'll find yourself in a chaotic queue of locals and tourists. Take a number and wait to be called. After changing into traditional massage attire, you'll become the guinea pig for a more or less experienced apprentice on a kind of communal mattress. You'll finish around 4:45/5:00 p.m. and, feeling relaxed, you'll have the site almost to yourself! Take your time contemplating the reclining Buddha and finish around 6:00 p.m. with the gathering of monks in the main temple and listen to them chant and pray... An exceptional and Zen moment awaits you!
Pai Spa.
Pai Spa. In my experience, this salon is one of the best... It is discreetly located at the top of a few steps at the corner of the entrance to the famous Khao San Road (unfortunately too touristy a street in Bangkok, to be avoided). The setting is superb, the service exceptional, the massage perfect and very professional. A subdued and traditional atmosphere reigns in this beautiful wooden house. Refreshments and sweets are offered. A very good experience and good value for money.
WHERE TO SHOP ?
Papaya Design Furniture & Studio.
Papaya Design Furniture & Studio. Papaya is in a location that is rather difficult to reach from Central or old Bangkok. The restaurant inside the store offers a very good menu in a vintage retro atmosphere that you will find on every floor. It is a veritable museum of decorative arts and everyday life where everything is for sale. The choice is just crazy and you forget you are in Bangkok. Don't expect to find any real bargains, but the place is exceptional! Just crazy. A real time machine.
Le Siam Paragon.
Siam Paragon. A place where restaurants (with magnificent decor like that of the Mandarin), gourmet supermarkets, luxury ready-to-wear brands, and the famous SeaLife all rub shoulders. Siam Paragon is adjacent to several annexes: Siam Discovery (where you'll find Thai fashion designers on the first and second floors, worthy of Parisian concept stores but at less exorbitant prices) and Siam Fashion (don't miss the top floor, where there's a superb ODS store selling original, 100% Thai souvenirs, a far cry from the trinkets found in the big bazaars or MBK) . I found some superb ceramics there. You can easily spend a whole afternoon there... or even the whole day...
La Lanta Fine Art
Lanta Fine Art and the gallery district. A little off-center but easily accessible by subway and bus, this district is home to a dozen contemporary art galleries housed in repurposed industrial buildings. Let's not forget that Bangkok hosts a contemporary art biennial that is popular with international collectors. In these galleries, which are as beautiful as their Parisian or New York counterparts, you can admire and be seduced by the works of innovative local artists with a strong identity.
WHERE TO STAY ?
Old Capital Bike Inn.
As soon as you step inside, you are immersed in a haven of peace and kindness. Jason and his small team go out of their way to make your stay a success. And the setting of the Old Capital Bike Inn contributes greatly to this... All the decorative elements are refined or original... The lobby has a slightly colonial feel with its quirky desk on bicycle wheels. The breakfast is incredible and is served by Jason to help you appreciate his country and culture. Another positive point about the hotel is its location. All the places to visit in old Bangkok can be reached from there on foot. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, Jason offers a free nighttime bike ride through popular neighborhoods and historic sites. The street where the hotel is located is lined with many small restaurants and a jazz café with live music, a famous spot in Bangkok.
Centara.
The Centara always lives up to its promises. Admittedly, it is a tower in the middle of the Siam district, which some may find charmless, but as a regular traveler to Thailand, I appreciate this place for its location, professional service, and luxury. Bangkok is also a cutting-edge, high-tech city. The Centara reflects this image with its attentive and friendly staff. The location is strategic: a stone's throw from prestigious shopping malls such as Gaysorn, Setan, Paragon, Siam Center, and Siam Discovery, as well as metro stations and trendy, gourmet, and local restaurants. The panoramic, enclosed swimming pool is peaceful. The Cru champagne bar on the top floor of the hotel is worth a visit.
WHERE TO EAT ?
Krua Apsorn.
Recommended by the Thai themselves, this place is a bit like a canteen where students in uniforms gather around large tables where everyone ends up sitting side by side. The menu is very varied and you can enjoy specialties for very little money. In short, it's a great way to immerse yourself in authentic Thai life.
Charm Eatery and Bar.
A trendy spot in Bangkok that is easily accessible by subway. The food is authentic and reasonably priced. It is popular with trendy Thais and expats. Be sure to make a reservation to get a good table on the balcony, for example. The menu is beautifully laid out and makes you want to try everything. The setting is charming, with live music and attentive service in excellent English.
Issaya Siamese Club.
Perhaps one of the best gourmet restaurants in Bangkok! Difficult to find for an inexperienced taxi driver but easier by metro and a 10-minute walk, the restaurant is tucked away at the end of a garden path in an old colonial house. The dishes offer a bold reinterpretation of traditional Thai flavors. The presentation is magnificent, and many dishes are finished in the dining room before your eyes. Even the spectacular dessert is shared on a banana leaf spread out on the table...
WHERE TO DRINK ?
Wallflowers Cafe.
A tea room above a florist's shop... Located in the southeast of Chinatown, this place is a hidden gem that has been taken over by Instagrammers since a local star did a photo shoot there. You can enjoy a sinfully delicious Red Velvet Cake in a vintage, boho-chic atmosphere worthy of a movie set.
Le Café des Stagiaires.
An eclectic and international bar opened several years ago by a handful of daring young Belgians. It's a great place to have an aperitif or a nightcap with a local and cosmopolitan crowd. People happily exchange anecdotes and advice in a noisy, festive atmosphere on the street-side terraces. Several trendy restaurants are located just a few steps away, such as Charm Eatery and Bunker.
CRU.
This exceptional place is accessible by a glass elevator from the Red Sky terrace of the Centara Hotel, located on the 56th floor... The ultimate rooftop bar, with no visual obstacles, no ceiling except the sky, a central bar, and a sublime 360-degree view. It is the most beautiful terrace in Bangkok, where the jet set, trendy tourists, and Thailand's hype society gather from 9:30 p.m. Bright designer furniture, charming waitresses and bartenders... A glass of champagne or a cocktail, live sets by arty DJ April, and you'll almost feel like a ladder is falling from the sky to take you even higher.
