LANDSCAPE
If we were to give one reason for going to South Africa it would definitely be for the diversity of the landscapes.
CAPE TOWN
The Cape of Good Hope remains magical and unavoidable, the confluence of two oceans. A neighbouring beach allows for penguin watching.
VINES ROAD
The Cape is the takeoff point for the wine route. Plan a day with a few stops for tastings. You will cross the city of Stellenbosch with its houses of Dutch architecture and its pretty oak tree lined streets, and then you’ll arrive in Franschhoek, a small town with the charms of a village in the French Provence (lavender fields, fine restaurants, elegant shops...) at the foot of the mountains.
DURBAN
Our favorite place in Durban: the hotel where we stayed: "The Oysters Box Hotel". Built by sailors in the 19th century (the lighthouse is still present), it was transformed into a hotel in the 30’. Colonial charm, exotic and lush gardens, breathtaking views of the ocean (the east coast of KwaZulu-Natal). Durban, a port city, is not particularly interesting and remains unsafe (sightseeing accompanied by a local guide is highly recommended)
JOHANNESBURG
The largest city in the country and known worldwide for its suburb "Soweto" (South Western Township). To refresh your memory: 3 million inhabitants living in a shantytown stretching as far as the eye can see, a key place for the anti-apartheid movement and home of two Nobel Peace Prize prize winners: Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. The historic city center was deserted in favor of a new center a few kilometers away (due to the riots). We recommend a visit to the Apartheid Museum (impressive) and the Satyagraha House where Gandhi used to live (restored and transformed into a boutique hotel and museum).
PRETORIA
The administrative capital, city of Paul Kruger (do not hesitate to visit his house). The architecture ranges from 19th century - with strong colonial influences - to 20th century modern. Do pay a visit to the Voortrekker Monument, visible from several kilometers away, prominently located on a hill, it pays homage to the Boer pioneers
TO DO
SLEEPING:
There are a few hotels, including the Peponi, which is reasonably luxurious, and across the water on another island—a five-minute boat ride away—the Majilis, which is more of a luxury “resort” dedicated to tranquility and seclusion. I stayed with friends who let me use their house, and in my opinion, that’s the best option. Of course, you can also rent a place.
FOOD:
The restaurants are delicious, especially Kijhani, as well as Majilis and Peponi, which have already been mentioned. Further away, at the other end of Manda Island—where Lamu is located—is Manda Bay, a very beautiful hotel but with very simple meals. It takes about two hours to walk there along the beach, but you can of course get there by boat.
ACTIVITIES:
Swim, go boating, windsurfing, or kitesurfing. Watch the donkeys, chat with the Maasai, enjoy coffee and drinks at Peponi, visit Lamu, and explore the village of the Louaus—a small community that makes bricks from coral fossils (take a boat there and bring candy for the children). But also go see the dolphins, especially around Christmas time at Kinika, a tiny island where you’ll also see some beautiful fish.
PLAY:
Robinson Crusoe is a 90-minute ride by speedboat from Kiwayu. The place has had its heyday and may have a certain charm that I didn’t really appreciate. The water is quite beautiful, and if you feel comfortable there, you can spend the night. In my opinion, one night is enough.
MASSAGE:
With Makiko, a Japanese woman: +254 722 669 950.
SHOPPING:
A must-have purchase is the kikkoy—a cotton or silk sarong-style wrap that isn’t actually silk but is very pretty. Peponi has a shop, but the real MUST-VISIT are the Masai, who occupy a small section of the seaside promenade and will be eager to get you to buy their jewelry, which is very pretty, by the way. The Masai are also very entertaining and quite witty. They are, moreover, very proud and superbly dressed in red and adorned with jewelry.
ENJOY:
A certain languor, a certain sophistication, a charm reminiscent of Somerset Maugham, the rediscovered pleasure of greeting everyone you meet, learning a few words of Swahili, surprises like that sudden hatch of tiny sea turtles that raced down the dune to reach the ocean, where they vanished in a matter of moments, playing with little transparent crabs that, once tamed, look at you with their big green eyes and are ultimately very endearing.
