BIG? ……..NO! HUGE!
Beijing currently has a population of just over 24 million. And it will not stop at that. In fact, with the project of regrouping Beijing with the neighboring province of Heibei and the port of Tianjin, the population would rise to a hundred million inhabitants. Mind blowing. Up to the mark of Xi Jin Ping's projects for China.
Despite this, like Shanghai, Beijing has great respect for its heritage. Between Buddhist temples, ancient neighborhoods and the brutalist architecture of official buildings, it is still in Beijing that one can at the best experience the culture, but also the power of China. Not forgetting, of course, the Forbidden City, the Tien An Men Square and the Great Wall. Classics.
As much as Shanghai likes to define itself and shine like an "international modern city", as much Beijing declines its Chinese identity very differently.
ECOLOGY
Yes, pollution is a huge problem in China. Checking the levels of pollution before leaving home is part of the daily routine, as is purifying the air in your apartment and to filter the water because it’s too polluted. But, initiatives are gradually bearing fruit. Nearly 50 million trees have already been planted around Beijing alone, and in Xi'an, for example, the world's largest air purifier is as tall as a skyscraper.
PEOPLE
When you travel in China today, you realize to which extent the younger generations are the epitome of pure consumerism, the taste of possession has almost become a reason to live. Technology is extremely advanced, alas not for the benefit of a better quality of life, but for a service minded society.
Despite this, despite their great curiosity and thirst for novelty, the weight of tradition is heavy.
KIDS
As a result of the imposed rule of one child only, with its conscious and subconscious consequences, children are kings! Cherished, adored, spoilt by their parents but especially the grandparents who take care of their education, the kids are living treasures. Adorable and malicious.
TO DO
Of course, when you set out to explore Beijing, the first thing that comes to mind is the Great Wall. Generally, you can only visit a few sections (out of more than 6,000 km), and the number of tourists is truly awful. Despite this, the view is quite incredible.
ABSOLUTELY avoid visiting during Chinese New Year!
AUTHENTIC HUTONGS:
Once you've visited the Great Wall and the Forbidden City, head to the Hutongs, the old working-class neighborhoods made up of narrow streets, dead ends, and old houses with courtyards and tiny gardens.
The entire Dashilan and Qianmen Hutongs neighborhood is undergoing renovation, but stick to the old part, around Yangmei Zhu. It's definitely my favorite neighborhood.
Stop for a coffee at Soloist coffee shop, browse for old books at Twelve Moons, where you can also find antique inkwells and beautiful fountain pens.
We have a drink in the late afternoon at Meeting Someone. And in the summer, when the weather is nice—which is often the case—we dine on the small patio of Suzuki Kitchen, a Japanese restaurant that also has a perfect Japanese craft shop. There you can find glassware, ceramics, and tableware. The selection is perfect.
New shops open every week with rather sophisticated concepts, from “florist patisseries” to decor concept stores featuring young local designers.
The neighborhood extends to the calligraphers' district. There, they come to buy paper, brushes, pigments, and have marble seals engraved.
The restored part of the Hutongs is rather uninteresting, too renovated, too smooth, but there is a reason to go there! To buy traditional Chinese slippers with hand-sewn cotton soles. The shop is on Neiliansheng, in Dashilan.
798 DASHANGI – ART DISTRICT:
This complex of former military factories and hangars has been taken over by contemporary art galleries. Art galleries, photo galleries, coffee shops, bars, and bookstores now make up one of Beijing's coolest neighborhoods.
An art foundation created by collector Guy Ullens was established there in 2007. UCCA has contributed enormously to the development of this neighborhood, but also to promoting very young contemporary artists.
FLEA MARKET - PANJIAYUAN
The flea market is not very well known. The concept of flea markets needs to be put into context here. It is more of a large market with few truly antique items, but you can still find some nice things.
Housed in a large warehouse and divided by category, you will find ceramics, beads, embroidery, old newspapers, posters, and more. You have to sort through it all, but with patience, you can find some interesting things.
TEMPLES:
There are many beautiful temples to visit. My favorite is the Lama Temple (or Yonghe Temple, founded in the 17th century and still very active). It has a timeless atmosphere with clouds of incense smoke and well-preserved architecture in this beautiful Buddhist sanctuary.
The Temple of Heaven is considered the pinnacle of traditional Chinese architecture. It symbolizes the relationship between heaven and earth, and it is said that the emperor celebrated solemn rites there to seek divine mercy.
It's best to go early in the morning to avoid the crowds of tourists and spend some time in the gardens, where the locals do their exercises.
WHERE TO EAT:
It's impossible to list all the places to eat. The food is excellent in China and Beijing.
There are restaurants from all provinces, so there's plenty of choice.
DIN TAI FUNG is a must. This restaurant serves Xiao Long Bao, small dumplings filled with stuffing and broth. Delicious.
For Peking Duck, we highly recommend Duck de Chine, which serves one of the best Peking ducks in Beijing in a more pleasant setting than the popular, noisy restaurants that carve ducks on an assembly line.
