HISTORICAL
Long dominated by the Baltic barons, Latvia became part of the Russian Empire in the early 18th century. The forced Russification of the late 19th century eliminated the influence of the barons of Germanic origin, and Russian influence became more pronounced.
During this period, Riga became an industrial city (the third-largest in the Empire) and an important port for the Russian Empire.
Having gained independence at the end of World War I, Latvia subsequently fell under Nazi and then Soviet rule.
Finally regaining independence in 1991, Latvia—now part of the EU—has become a modern and free country.
PEOPLE
The Latvians—both men and women—struck me as quite sophisticated, talkative (in a good way), curious, and generally quite attractive. Taxi drivers are happy to show you around the city and offer advice.
OLD RIGA
The Old Town, where my hotel was located, is interesting, and a ride in a 1900s-style electric golf cart was fun on the uneven cobblestones
LIBERTY
The Liberty neighborhoods are extraordinary.
Architect Mikhail Eisenstein—whose son (the director of *Battleship Potemkin*) once said, “My father doesn’t build buildings; he makes cakes”—has indeed given the city an extraordinary collection of Art Nouveau buildings. You absolutely must stroll down Alberta Street (Alberta Iela) and Elisabetes Iela to discover these pastel-colored, whipped-cream-like buildings and their extraordinary facades.
You’ll also discover the more romantic Art Deco work of architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns, whose signature building—which served as his home—now houses a museum on the top floor. The staircase and stairwell are extraordinary.
TRENDY
The Latvians struck me as cheerful and pretty trendy. In general, they’re well-dressed and pretty cool.
FLORAL
The parks and gardens are beautiful, full of flowers, and well-maintained. Riga is a very clean city.
PUTINE
A photo of Putin, with an ogre-like face, hangs on the walls of a ministry building across from the Russian Embassy.
AIR BALTIC
I really appreciated the cleanliness and the service on board. They even serve champagne!
